It's Not All About Art

What's there to do in Venice besides look at art and walk around. Well, eat of course. After a couple of ordinary meals, we decided to ask our hotel (Novecento) to recommend a restaurant and make a reservation. They booked us at Osteria di Santa Marino somewhat near the Rialto Bridge and quite a walk from our hotel. We had a 6 course tasting menu at 65 Euros per person, plus wine. We thought it was creative, fresh, and unique. Imagine my surprise when I read the Travel Section of the New York Times this morning (Sunday, July 1) to find a description of Mark Bittman's dinner at the same restaurant. I agree with Bittman's comments, but I did not get a 25 percent discount in my bill. Our menu was different than his. After choosing the all fish (raw and partially cooked) tasting menu --for us quite daring since two of us are not exactly fish lovers -- our amuse bouche arrived in a beautiful white bowl. In the center of a creamy grain (either polenta, grits or an Italian equivalent) was a black substance that was either octopus or squid. I ate some of it, but Judy said it was her favorite dish. The other dishes that followed included a wonderful carpaccio of tuna, salmon, and sword fish. All were so thin they appeared translucent and were wonderful. Raw shrimp with 3 miniature asparagus spears--perfectly cooked--was just right. I loved the risotto with asparagus, but I chose to omit the scallops. Our last dish, seared tuna with fava beans and housemade potato chips, was perfectly cooked. The meal ended with a light lemon gelatto and some wonderful sweets. I should also mention the perfectly warmed rolls which were a perfect compliment to the fish. We all decided that we would never have chosen to eat an all fish meal, but were so happy we did. Now don't expect wonderful service or an elegant setting. This restaurant is all about freshness and preparation. So we agree with Bittman. When in Venice, make sure you get to Osteria di Santa Marino. Don't be put off by the simple decor and wooden tables. The preparation and cooking is superb.

Now another wonderful story about food. My brother and sister-in-law had eaten at a small restaurant (cash only) across the Academmia Bridge from our hotel. La Bitta is described in Travel and Leisure as "a mom and pop act in a small storefront" off the Campo San Barnaba. We decided to eat there because my brother was very anxious to have the recipe for Panna Cotta -- a cross between flan, pudding, and creme brulee but much better. Our hotel booked a table for us. When we arrived we discovered that Judy and Jim had been there two years earlier, celebrating Jim's birthday. Certainly a small world. We enjoyed a very nicely cooked meal (no fish at this restaurant) and were quite full. No room left for the Panna Cotta. But when the signora cleared our plates, I asked her if we could have her recipe. She smiled and sat down at the table with us. She took out her pencil and wrote the recipe on a section of the paper place mat. We were delighted. At a neighboring table, two people asked us if we had gotten the recipe. I promised to email it to them.

So, stick with what friends, travel magazines, and hotels recommend. Avoid going to crowded places where you will get poor food at prices that will surprise and annoy you. But do expect to spend a lot of money in Venice. Conversion rates for the Euro are almost 1 Euro equal to $1.37.